Tuesday, August 11, 2009

WE MADE IT!

Looks like we made it into the paper again:

Another 'crazy guy on a bike'



Aug. 8, 2009
Lots of new photos: ALL PHOTOS

We walked onto the beach at the Atlantic ocean on August 8th! The name "Yorktown" has been so imprinted into my mind over the course of the trip that when I finally saw it printed on a road sign, I almost did a double take.

This has been an overwhelmingly fulfilling journey. I walk away with a renewed sense of faith in the goodness of people.

My journey will continue up the coast to NYC and beyond!





Thursday, August 6, 2009

COOKIE LADY!

I finally had the exceptional honor of meeting the esteemed "Cookie Lady," June Curry. The Cookie Lady has reached a level of lore on the TransAmerica that is difficult to be matched by anything else. We started hearing stories of her home and her kind deeds as far back as the Oregon coast, and were pleased to find them all to be true!

June is a kindly older lady who lives in a proper three story brick house perched near the top of a steep hill above the town of Afton Virginia. She has lived in the same home since her birth, and for that reason history runs DEEP in her home. She has dedicated one of the buildings on her property as "The Bike House" (or bike 'who-ose' as she pronounces it). The building is filled top to bottom, wall to wall with bicycle memorabilia from the last 35 years. June's health is ailing, but her mind is filled with hundreds of stories that she loves to recount at a moments notice. She apologizes that she is often unable to remember all of the bicyclists she has taken in, as it has now been over 14,000! (yes, fourteen thousand!) She meticulously photographs each group who comes through her home, and catalog's them into a binder for year.

June is now recognized by the Adventure Cycling organization as a "Trail Angel" - or someone who has gone above and beyond to help cyclists on their way. My time at June's house was wonderful, and I feel like a better person to have had the opportunity to meet her. Thanks Cookie Lady!

June Curry - "The Cookie Lady" with Jackson and Heather. All Photos.

Leaving my little piece of memorabilia at The Bike House. All Photos.

Our Polaroid for the Cookie Lady's Records. All Photos.

Bicycle Memrobelia in "The Bike House" at the Cookie Lady's. All Photos.

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

5 Days Left!

Our voyage across the country is quickly coming to a close. It seems that every day we ride more than we had expected, resulting in an end date that was originally August 30th, then 20th, the 10th, and now the 8th!

The feel of the communities we are traveling through has been rapidly changing again. Gone are the Deliverance-esk scenes of rural Kentucky. We've had our fill of ratty trailers and even dirtier dogs. Crossing the state line into Virginia was like a breath of fresh air. In this dignified land, lawns were mowed, houses were firmly attached to their foundations, and the locals speak in a distinguished southern drawl. Today I had the pleasure of shopping at an all-organic market, and reading the Wall Street Journal for the first time in nearly 2 months! The biting smell of bulk flax seed and oats at the market instantly brought me back to grocery shopping at home in San Francisco. I miss good food!

The Appalachian mountains are turning out to be a BRUTAL ride. It seems whoever laid out the road system here decided to go straight over the mountains instead of following riverbeds and ridges, as is the style in the west. It seems there is never a break; we're either going straight up or straight down, there is no in between.

Yesterday our path crossed with the Appalachian Trail. This 2200 mile hiking trail runs through the mountain range running north-south. We had the opportunity to meet with a couple of hikers who had been out on the trail for 75 days. As bicyclists we are used to being on the bottom of the transportation totem pole. When we found out they had only managed to cover only 700 miles in that many days, we started to feel pretty good about our progress. :-) They were funny guys who obviously enjoyed a little (a lot) of herb on their trip. They had taken to wearing Hawaiian Sarongs, or skirts as they were calling them. It was a funny interaction, as these guys had obviously been on the road for a LONG time.

Finding Our Way. All Photos.


Following the "76" bike route across Virginia. Same route as the "BikeCentennial" in 1976! Left to right: John, Doug, Heather, Jackson, Dave. All Photos.






John in the Rolling Virginia Countryside. All Photos.



Either the Baptists have a REALLY good sense of humor, or they are completely oblivious. All Photos.

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

The Dogs are Getting OUT OF CONTROL!

As we ride deeper and deeper into Kentucky, the dogs are getting more and more out of control. Literally every house has a mass of vicious dogs, waiting for their moment to sprint. Any guilt we have previously felt about harming an animal has faded away. We have taken to riding as a tight pod of five, and are now armed to the hilt with every weapon we can conceive. The lead rider rarely has anything to worry about, as the dogs almost always chase the trailing rider. We've started to riding two-wide, thus one person can protect the back left of the group, and the other the back right, with one rider at "point" (front). Each of us has spray mace, and a box of "poppers." The latter of which are small paper-wrapped firecrackers that can be detonated by throwing them at the ground. With the lead rider screaming at the top of his/her lungs, and the trailers spraying and blowing up everything else, we have managed to avoid any bites. We're actually starting to have quite a time of it, and the constant distraction makes the miles melt away.

TODAY MARKS 2 MONTHS ON THE ROAD FOR JOHN AND I! HORRAY!

Saturday, July 25, 2009

Kentucky! [This Post Written and Edited by Doug Lybeck]

July 23, 2009

We crossed into Kentucky this afternoon. The transition from Illinois was dramatic: strip malls to rolling hillsides. Each home tends to have an immaculate 4-5 acre lawn surrounding it. The amount of time Kentuckens spend mowing their lawns must be astonishing! The countryside accompanies the property very well, alternating between lush trees, hills, corn, soybean and tobacco crops.
Kentucky's residents LOVE their enormous, perfectly maintained lawns
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Me and my first Tobacco field.
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Other cyclists have been warning us for weeks about the dogs in Kentucky. They are NASTY! It seems like every other house has one or two BIG, MEAN dogs sitting on the property, ready and trained to attack cyclists. They often come out of nowhere, remaining silent until they are at full speed, right on your heels. We’ve tried a number of techniques to evade them, some with better success than others. John often tries to stop ahead of the dogs, resulting in them loosing interest and wandering off. I’ve tried the “pedal for dear life” approach, which is not really advisable because if they have already caught up to you they can easily outrun the bikes. Everyone is now carrying dog-mace or pepper spray which seems to be the most effective deterrent. We’ve only had to use it once thus far, and Heather relayed her experience as “turning a ferocious killing machine into a whining puppy” in a matter of seconds. I hope I don’t have to use the ¾ aluminum pipe I now carry on the bike, but I will if I have to.
One of the few ways to fend off attacking dogs.
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Churches continue to becone of our most reliable and welcoming places to camp. The Bob and his wife Violet took us in in Shawnee Kentucky, and treated us like royalty! Violet cooked us a wonderful southern style dinner of cornbread, beans + hamhock, salad, coleslaw and spiral cut ham. Showers, laundry and an air-conditioned place to sleep were greatly appreciated.

St Louis [This Post Written and Edited by Doug Lybeck]

July 21, 2009

We finished the Katy Trail in Missouri this afternoon in grand style. The trail technically ends in St Charles, but we decided to continue on into St Louis.

It’s been fascinating to watch the progression of real estate prices as we approached the city. Only 50 miles out, nice three bedroom homes can be had for as little as 20K! The small towns outside of the city are actually VERY nice. For some reason I had a bad image is Missouri in my head before I arrived, but I’ve been proven quite wrong.

John, Heather, Jackson, Dave and myself rode into the outer suburbs of St Louis, through Creve Coeur park and a series of interurban bike trails. Unfortunately the trails quickly ended and we found ourselves on packed city streets during rush hour. I’m used to city riding, but its significantly harder when fully loaded for touring, let alone with four other people trailing me. The others needed a Best Buy to find a new camera, so I decided to use the opportunity to sprint into downtown to see the arch! The tourist in me couldn’t resist. Downtown St Louis is very nice, much like most US cities. It had a slum period in the 70’s and 80’s, and has received a great deal of waterfront improvements over the last 20 years. The area directly downtown actually reminds me quite a bit of San Francisco.

Being an uber-tourist at the arch in St Louis
All Photos

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

We Got In The Newspaper!!

Amanda did an interview with the New Haven Register, and it looks like it got published!

New Haven Register - Connecticut

Monday, July 20, 2009

Katy Trail Update [This Post Written and Edited by Doug Lybeck]

July 19, 2009

Well we’ve had another hilarious and amazing day out on the Katy Trail out in Missouri. We’ve met back up with the Kiwi’s, Heather and Jackson, Dave (from Idaho), and a couple of new guys who are sponsored by the beer company that brews Fat Tire beer. The last two always seem to have plenty of free beer. :-)

This afternoon we only put down about 70 miles, and traveled from New Franklin to the small town of Tebbets, Missouri. We rolled into town and were greeted by the friendly locals, and were quickly directed to the “Turner Katy Trail Shelter,” which is a low cost hostel for bikers. It’s a HUGE converted house right in downtown which is now equipped with over 30 bunk beds, amazing hot showers, a kitchen, and a couple great porches on which to socialize with the DOZENS of other locals and travelers.

Turner Katy Trail Shelter.
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Within about a half hour, Jim, the local ‘retired’ bartender swooped around the corner in one of his four 1920’s vintage Ford Model T’s and offered each of us a ride around the small town. The model he had out today was the 1922, two seat convertible (Jim’s personal favorite). It seems his aim was to get everyone in town to come out to Karaoke at the bar with him. Jim is a character, and he’s hard to say no to. When we arrived at the bar later in the evening we were greeted with confederate flags, pictures of eagles, old beer posters, and even a full-size set of fake breasts which sang a country twang of “Titties and Beer.” This place was everything you imagine middle America to be. I cringed when I looked at a large bottle of Budweiser on the bar which had the following hand written label attached: “OBAMA Beer! Not to dark, not to light. Just right” Jim poured another beer and quickly reassured me that he had indeed voted for Obama, something I’m still not entirely convinced of.

Jim the bartender took us all for rides in his 1922 Ford Model T All Photos
It turns out that gag jokes are Jim’s amusement of choice, and walking into his bar is like stepping into his own little playhouse. In one corner he has an “electric chair” set up, which is essentially a full-sized “hand buzzer” joke. He delighted in making Heather squirm with discomfort as he tied her into the contraption. He ducks back behind the bar, and comes out moments later dressed as Mickey Mouse, simply to prove the point that he hasn’t the slightest clue what he is talking about. The jokes continued seemingly indefinitely until we decided to head back over to catch some sleep for tomorrows ride. This place will certainly be memorable.
Heather in the Faux Electric Chair. Jim's Bar, Tebbets MO. All Photos





A dog jumped in front of my bike, causing me to endo and break my trailer. 2 hours to fix. :-(
All Photos

Sunday, July 19, 2009

Sad Day........ [This Post Written and Edited by Doug Lybeck]

Sad Day........
Unfortunately Nick and Amanda have decided to part ways and take a different route home to the Northeast. School is a high priority in their lives, and both need to get home in time to prepare for senior projects, and classes. Their parting was sudden, so I'm not 100% sure what route they will be taking or when or where they will be home. It's been a fun 3000 + miles of pedaling, and I'll remember you guys forever! I wish you well!

And then there were two......... John and I (Doug) have decided to continue along the TransAmerica trail to our original destination: Yorktown Virginia. The trip is coming to a very rapid close; our expected arrival date is floating around August 8-10. My excitement grows each day with anticipation for the East Coast!

Nick and Amanda are Headin Home.... :-( It Was a Fun Trip! Good Luck in School!
All Photos

Katy Trail Update [This Post Written and Edited by Doug Lybeck]

Our journey off-route to the Katy Trail has been absolutely worth the trip! The trail actually turned out to be incredibly well maintained, and covers almost half the state of Missouri. Its actually a part of the Missouri State Park system.

As we ride down the abandoned railway right-of-way, I have the feeling of being removed from time, as though it could be 100 or more years ago. Much of the path is shrouded by a series of wonderful deciduous trees which guard us not only from the sun, but the wind as well. Many of the historical rail features remain, including dilapidated locomotive turnabouts, signal indicators, and old tunnels. The wildlife here is incredibly abundant! Frogs and toads dart left and right as we ride along, hares and small rabbits are copious, and we even saw what appeared to be a juvenile turkey vulture sitting on the side of the path!

Juvenile Turkey Vulture? Katy Trail, Missouri.
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Katy Trail, Missouri. Remnants of the Old Railway Remain Everywhere.
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Saturday, July 18, 2009

New Trail [This Post Written and Edited by Doug Lybeck]

Today I find myself in the back of a U-Haul trailer, trucking North across the Kansas countryside. Usually such a break from riding would be a gross misstep in the Transamerica trail, but we have managed to justify it. We’re heading off route (we’ve left the Adventure Cycling map), to find a path known as the “Katy Trail.” Its been talked about much by other cyclists who have ridden it, and comes highly recommended. It’s a 225 mile, hard-pack gravel trail built on an old rail right-of-way. We feel OK about taking the U-haul because the path is 100 miles exactly north of where we left the Transamerica trail. Technically we are still riding the full coast-to-coast trail, just at a different latitude. We’re traveling with our New Zealand buddies Jackson and Heather. There’s a total of 6 of us in a truck built for two. John, Amanda, Nick and myself are stuffed in the back with all the bikes and gear. It’s a stuffy, airless 87 degrees in the enclosed truck bed. We’ve noticed the temperature rises 1 degree every ten minutes, and we have a two hour drive ahead of us – UH OH! I know the temporary discomfort will be worth it.

John Gets Comfy in the Back of the UHaul
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Amanda, Nick and Doug - Two Hours Into a Ride in the Back of the UHaul
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The bleak Kansas countryside is finally giving way to a much more hospitable Missouri hillscape. We just stopped the U-Haul for a quick pee-break and were amazed by the greenery and water! We’ll be getting into the Ozark mountain range shortly, which is supposed to be some of the prettiest scenery on the trip.

Sunday, July 12, 2009

Kansas [This Post Written and Edited by Doug Lybeck]

July 11, 2009


For the duration of the trip we have been attempting to meet up with one of Amanda’s friends, Bob Lorence, who has wanted to join our journey from the very beginning. He’s a 24 year old long haul trucker who drives 18 wheelers for a living. He also unicycles on the side! We’d initially planned to meet him in Oregon, then Montana, Wyoming, and Colorado, but each time his company dispatched him out on a new job. At long last he was sent out to Denver, a short two hour drive from where we were riding. After parking his rig in Denver he rented a U-Haul and drove his bike down to Scott City Kansas, where he met us in the sweltering Great Plains heat.

Bob rides an AWESOME “Longbike Sidewinder.” It’s a very modern recumbent, with under-seat steering. As we toil along in awkward positions on our standard bikes, Bob reclines as though lounging at the pool. It’s a SWEET bike, and after riding it around Scott City for a few minutes, I may very well be converted to this new style of riding. We’re back up to five riders, and having a GREAT time.

Bob's New "LongBike Sidewinder" Recumbent.
All Photos


Kansas has been entirely different than we expected. There is a great deal of repetition here. Each town is 15-20 miles apart, and each is an almost identical 10 by 10 block copy of the last. The roads do not turn. Swimming pools are not a luxury here, they are an expected commodity which each town is very proud to build and maintain. As cyclists, we are often invited to swim free of charge, by locals who are reliably enthusiastic about our journey. We’re already 1/3 across Kansas, and we have only been in the state for 2 days! The heat is intense; every day is over 100 degrees. We've taken to riding in the morning, taking a four hour lunch break from 2pm to 6pm, and finishing up the ride in the evening. 64 oz slurpees are one of the few things keeping us sane after a 7 hour ride in the beating sun.


Staying Cool With 64 Oz Slurpees in EVERY Town.
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Thursday, July 9, 2009

Eads Colorado - A Step Back in Time [This Post Written and Edited by Doug Lybeck]

All Photos

July 8, 2009 –

Well we finally bid goodbye to the Rockies yesterday, and they went out in as dramatic a fashion as they came in. Almost instantly after passing our last and highest Rocky Mountain pass (Hoosier, 11,500 feet), we dive-bombed down into the eastern Colorado flats. It was stunning to see the change in terrain. We’ve been out in the flats for three days now, and we’re beginning to get a taste of what Kansas and the next three weeks may feel like. There is truly NOTHING out here. I never thought I’d be so excited to see a grain silo, but out here it’s one of the few things that keeps me going. The roads are so long and SO straight that you can actually see a town 15-20 miles before you arrive at it. The grain silos make for a good checkpoint in your day, but when you only pass two in an 80 mile ride, it takes a lot to stay focused. Today I downloaded George Orwell’s “1984” on my IPOD to keep my mind from wandering.

Last night we pulled into Eads, Colorado. It’s likely the biggest city w have seen in 4 days at 1500 people. We’re lucky to be arriving right as the summer wheat harvest is coming in. This otherwise sleepy town is now bustling with commotion and machinery. Combines and harvest trucks crowd the roads, as farmers rush their crops to the downtown grain silo. We are camped out right at the base of the silo, in the midst of the tumultuous activity. Semi trucks come in and drop multi-ton loads off, which are then augured up into the silo and stored for about a week. This Wednesday night turned out to be the evening when they dumped the entire stock into a freight train for transport elsewhere. This whole event took place not 100 feet from our camping spot in the city park. It’s all quite noisy, but it’s so fun to watch you can hardly complain.

As the sun set on the workers at the silo, a BUNCH of kids came out in their cars and started looping the main street of town. Round and round they go on the ½ mile main strip. At one point there were at least 20 vehicles of all makes and models making the loop. I finally went over and yelled out “WHAT ARE YOU DOING!?” A young girl yelled back “WERE CRUSIN!!” I was floored! It was literally a modern day reincarnation of “American Graffiti;” 1950’s style youth amusement. All we need now is a milkshake-diner and roller skates. This town feels like we have stepped back in time 60 years, and I LOVE IT!










The Bustling Grain Silo in Eads Colorado.
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Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Happy July 4th! [This Post Written and Edited by Doug lybeck]

July 4, 2009 [This Post Written and Edited by Doug lybeck]

HAPPY FOURTH OF JULY!!

Well we have finally arrived in the legendary Brekenridge/Vail/Aspen resort area, and so far it has left nothing to be desired. After a LONG haul through the rest of Wyoming, we entered Colorado from the north. Instantly the terrain was transformed from the low-lying scrub brush of the previous state, to grandiose mountains of epic proportions. We joked that Wyoming drew the short straw when it came to picking state lines, but its really true. We have completely fallen in love with the small lakeside town of Frisco, Colorado. It’s like the unknown little brother to Brekenridge, but has just as much charm. A couple of days before we had arrived, we had intended to take a day off, and it turned out to be a GREAT choice. Although this entire area is VERY touristy, it is flanked by some of the most stunning scenery we’ve come across yet. I can see why Colorado has become a place of vacation lore.
Of course we arrived to find the campgrounds completely full for the holiday weekend. Thousands of tourists from throughout the country had packed the dusty, boring, overpriced campgrounds days before we had arrived. Generally we are allowed to camp in a “hiker/ biker” section because we do not travel with a vehicle, but not here! Campground hosts scoffed, as though the very thought that we might stay without a 6 month reservation was simply too much for them to comprehend. We grew tired of their lack of hospitality and decided to instead to camp out on the shores of lake Dillon, not a half mile from the campground. It turned out to be one of our favorite sites yet. Our small peninsula overlooks the beautiful Frisco Marina, and is directly across from where the town fires off their fireworks! We awoke to an especially grand, golden sunrise, accompanied by a glass-like lake covered in a mysterious mist. We saved $17 and had a great time of it.
Amanda and I decided that the mountains were simply too stunning not to climb, and took off early in the morning to explore. We hiked about 15 miles in the backcountry around lake Dillon, and were rewarded with a great deal of dynamic and impressive alpine scenery. We’ve both decided that if there were ever a place to rip-up-roots and move to, this would be it!


Entering Colorado - SWEET SIGN
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Questionable Gas Station Naming in the Midwest.......
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Saturday, June 27, 2009

Blog updates

Hey all -

Unfortunately my laptop charger broke while we were in Ennis, Montana. I have a new one being shipped to Rawlins Wyoming which we will pick up in a couple of days. In the meantime I am keeping our journey chronicled on paper and will upload all of our stories in a few days.

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Comments have been enabled!

Hey everyone - Comments have been enabled on the blog! WE LOVE COMMENTS! We especially like to hear from people we have met on the road, and of course friends and family! Make sure you leave your name and where we met you, or you will show up as "anonymous." Thanks to my brother Steven in Brisbane, CA for enabling this feature. More to come soon!

Saturday, June 20, 2009

June 19, 2009 [This Post Written and Edited by Doug Lybeck]

June 20, 2009

[This Post Written and Edited by Doug Lybeck]

Montana treats so unbelievably well!! This evening we rode from Jackson Montana to Twin bridges. Over the last few days we’ve become quite adept at working with thunderstorms. Each afternoon they become more and more intense. The skies are so enormous in Montana that we are able to see for miles and have some sense of where the rain will hit next. As we dodged storms, we talked about rainbows, specifically how you rarely see a full ‘bow.’ Not five minutes later an ENORMOUS DOUBLE rainbow opened up, crossing the entire sky! Not even the torrential rainstorms can dampen our spirits.

Double Rainbow!

As our maps had warned, we are deep in some of the worst mosquito territory in the entire country. The town of Wisdom, MT is the epicenter, where the bugs are so dense you literally have to keep riding at 15 mph or they catch you and EAT YOU ALIVE! We found ourselves running from town to town, ditching our bikes and running into the nearest grocery store. One store renamed their bug-spray isle “Wisdom Valley Cologne”

"Big Hole Cologne" LOL

We arrived in the town of Twin Bridges, concerned about staying dry and finding a place to cook dinner after a rough 80 mile day. Weekend days are always the best for local events, and today was no exception. We were lucky enough to find the annual Darby County “Welcome to the Neighborhood” party in full swing at the fairground pagoda. About 100 locals were celebrating with live music, home cooked food and a delicious local honey-brew beer. All we asked was to use the restroom, but were instead welcomed with open arms. Food and beer flowed freely, and when that ran out we were encouraged to bring all our camp gear into the pagoda and spend the night. The building itself is quite stunning; a turn-of-the-century log-built octagon. It’s a HUGE space, likely 150 feet across and 40 feet high. Many thanks to the event coordinator Rebecca for letting us spend the night in such a wonderful place. You’re generosity kept us warm and dry. Twin Bridges will remain in our memory forever.
The 10.000 square foot wooden pagoda which we were welcome to camp and cook in after the town-party.



One of our favorite campsites "May Creek," which we nicknamed "The Shire." It's in the Big Hole National forest at about 7000 feet elevation. BEAUTIFUL.

[This Post Written and Edited by Doug Lybeck]

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

MON TAYN!!! June 16, 2009 [This Post Written and Edited by Amanda Michaud]

[This Post Written and Edited by Amanda Michaud]
8 of us rolled into Lolo Pass ranger station which you read about previously. Montana welcomed us with another hellacious afternoon thunderstorm that soaked us all to the bone. :(. That is day six of rain! But that doesn’t stop us from being ecstatic about the journey. After a two hour ride out of the sawtooth mountains, we found ourselves indulging in Mexican food (thanks to the recommendation from our New Zealander friends, Heather and Jackson), while waiting out some torrential downpours. As we were being bombarded by awful repetitive news (this is why I hate tv ) and consistent rain storms and failing at trying to find a place to stay that was affordable some kid came in and mentioned this was the worst rain he had seen in the area! HAAHAHA. Just our luck ;). As we became frustrated with our lack of options, we were approached by a couple who had been dining at the same restaurant. They asked us if we wouldn’t mind letting them indulge us in a little bit of western hospitality. They welcomed us into their GORGEOUS apartment with open arms. We biked from Lolo to Missoula which is where they lived, and our destination as well. When we arrived they cleared us a space in the garage and told us to make ourselves at home. We had no choice because they literally had us in our own apartment. It was set up to be sold and everything was immaculate. There were two bedrooms with queen sized comfy beds and amazing pillows and fluffy towels!!!! There were two full baths for us to use and a living room/kitchen area. They also offered us there washer and dryer so we took full advantage and did two loads of laundry and took showers in probably the hottest water we could ask for! It was so awesome. We chatted all night and got to know a bit about each other and then they told us they wanted to make us breakfast. We woke up to homemade whole wheat oatmeal flax pancakes (pancakes are my favorite breakfast ever) and eggs with fresh spinach and fresh northern Montanian locally produced sausages which Nick kept talking about the whole time. They were the best pancakes ever! Thank you so much Jerry and Debbie! We all chatted some more and exchanged information and we will keep in touch with them. Thank you again for your hospitality, you have no clue how much it meant for us.

We headed on out to the adventure cycling association and it was everything and more than we thought it would be and moseyed on around there and then had a very late start to our destination which is Hamilton, MT, where we are right now utilizing some good signals and loving the big sky state…it’s a whollleee lotta sky, but we don’t get to see it in full, instead, we get MOUNTAINS AND ELEVATION AND AMAZING AWESOMENESS! Check back soon!!!! Every day on the road is the best day of our lives. And to all my CT and ME buddies…my mobile home is holding up great! One broken spoke way back many moons ago, and my first flat today!

[This Post Written and Edited by Amanda Michaud]

What are we riding?

I've had a lot of people ask me what kind of bikes we are all riding, so here is a quick bio on each of us:

Nick Morin’s 2009 Specialized Allez + BOB trailer:


This is a brand new bike, really meant more for racing than touring, but a good bike is a good bike no matter what. Nick tow’s a one-wheel BOB (Beast of Burden) trailer, which has a large single waterproof bag for all of his stuff. We found out in the first couple of days that it’s VERY hard to do loaded hill climbs with a double-chainring on the front of the bike. The rig is set up for speed, not distance or hills. The solution was elegantly simple: put a dinner-plate sized rear cassette on the back gear, bringing the drive train ratio to about 1:1, and hills become A LOT easier. The bike is otherwise stock except for new puncture-resistant Continental tires.

John O’Toole’s 2008 Surly Long Haul Trucker ‘Fatties Fit Fine”


This is THE RIG for long distance bike touring. It’s solid as a tank, with a chrome-molly frame, 40-spoke wheels and beefy 37 mm tires. I just learned that ‘fatties fit fine’ actually means that those large-diameter tires will fit into the forks and breaks, an expensive problem to resolve in other bikes. John has outfitted the bike with a Brooks B17 leather saddle, new handlebar cork (padding), two HUGE Arkel pannier bags, and a handlebar bag to finish it off. The LHT is really the way to bike tour trouble-free.



Tony’s 2005 Giant Boulder SE:


Tony decided to refit his existing mountain bike to suit touring needs. He took his stock bike and added more-durable Deore LX derailleur and XT wheel hubs. These components are simply more heavy-duty, and intended to handle the weight of long distance riding. The front suspension fork is stock, but has been tightened to allow for almost no flex. Tony also has front and rear Arkel pannier bags, and a Brooks B17 saddle. I’m jealous of how smooth this bike cruises.

Amanda Michaud’s 2002 Specialized Allez
:


Amanda is riding a borrowed race bike very similar to Nick’s and mine. It’s a light weight rig with a carbon front fork, and is stock with the exception of a new Cloud 9 saddle. She decided to go light and stick with only two rear Axiom pannier bags. Her gear seems to be growing in height, as there is nowhere else to put it. Her latest creation is a mobile snack bar. She has taken to strapping red vines, cookies and cereal to the side of her rig so that we can all come along and snack. Its pretty grand.

Doug Lybck’s 2008 Specialized Allez:


Despite many discouraging comments about my decision to tour on a race bike, I’ve been completely pleased. I’m towing a 14 lb Burly Nomad trailer which keeps almost all of my gear weight off the bike. I’ve replaced the stock wheel set with a bladed Vuelta pair with Bontrager Race Lite tires. My Brooks B17 saddle is keeping my butt happy. I’ve taped over all the identifying marks to keep it from getting stolen. No problems yet, except for 5 flat tires……

Monday, June 15, 2009

MONTANA!

We just hit the Montana boarder! We're drinking hot coco and playing on the internet at the LOLO pass ranger station. Happy day!

WHITE BIRD IDAHO IS AMAZING!

June 13, 2009

GREAT DAY!

I have to give a HUGE promo to the Silver Dollar Restaurant and Bar in White Bird, Idaho! If anyone is anywhere in or near northern Idaho, make sure you stop by and get taken care of by Sheryl. After last night’s dinner we went back for breakfast this morning, and were stunned to find that she wouldn’t take our payment! Thanks again Sheryl! Your HUGE all American breakfast powered us up the pass this morning.

Over dinner last night, Sheryl had told us about today’s bike race, which we all decided to take part in, as it followed a part of our trail up Old Hwy 95. Nick and I wanted to race it without our gear, while Amanda and John wanted to keep true to the “Transamerica lifestyle” and carry all their gear themselves. An awesome local guy offered to carry our gear to the top in the truck – thanks buddy! We hit the race line at 9am with about 80 other riders. The course was 13 miles long, with almost 2500 feet of vertical elevation! It was a long haul, but I managed to come in third place out of the 75 who finished, with a time of 54 minutes, 10 seconds. I was EXTACTIC! Nick placed at 1 hour and 11 minutes, and Amanda and John hauled in at 1 hour 47 minutes – while carrying 70 pounds of gear each! We got pretty lucky that such a fun event just happened to jive so well with our schedule. We have an open invitation to compete again next year……. Perhaps?

From left to right: Nick, Doug, John and Amanda at the finish line for the "Just for the Hill of it" bike race. White Bird, Idaho.



The rest of the day was a 65 mile cruise through the gorgeous Idaho Sawtooth mountain range. The forests are extremely dense here, as logging is not as mainstream as in Oregon. It seems like normal national forest service terrain, but everything is on a MASSIVE scale. Rivers are 100 feet wide and run faster than we can ride our bikes. The mountains are no taller than we have experienced, but they rise out of valleys at monumental steepness. The vastness of the terrain makes me feel meek in comparison to our surroundings.

Our group, following the Lochsa River in Idaho. We're gathering Transamer's.
Left to right: John, Phil, Amanda, Dave (top), Nick (bottom), Doug, Jackson, Heather

Friday, June 12, 2009

Pictures

Remember, you can see all of our pictures in full resolution here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30670486@N03/

Enjoy!

June 9-12


Showing where we've been

Amanda, Doug and John at Zim's hotsprings outside of New Meadows Idaho. Highly recommended!


Our good Transamerica buddies from New Zealand, Heather and Jackson. We seem to run into each other about every other day. GREAT people!


Doug Cresting McKenzie Pass

John riding one of Oregon's many personalized bike racks.


June 9, 2009

We finally made it to Idaho! After days of riding through the beautiful Oregon high desert, we finally made it to the boarder. In our excitement we immediately crossed the river and started riding the wrong way towards “Hells Canyon,” an attraction we had seen advertised for 200 miles. We didn’t realize our mistake until we were deep into the canyon. It turned out to be a wonderful accident, as we had some of the best swimming to date, but we ended up having to ride back out over 6 miles.

We ended the day in Cambridge Idaho, a small town of 300 or so people with not much going on. Two older gents talked us up at the hardware store in the early afternoon. They kept the conversation fun until politics came up. The older fellow started out “I’ll bet you’re those types who voted for OBAAAMA……..we’re seein more and more ‘O them liberals out here every year.” After hashing out our political differences we decided to keep the conversation somewhat more PC, and stuck to the scenery and “small town” vibe. We camped in the town’s park for free, but not before hitting up the local bar. We got some stares from the locals as we came in wearing skin tight neon spandex at 11oclock at night. The initial tension was alleviated when we explained our story, and the $1.50 beers were flowing freely. I’ve never been in a bar where I would feel financially comfortable buying the entire bar a round before, but it would be NO problem here.

June 10, 2009

This afternoon we crossed the “45th parallel, which is the halfway point between the equator and the north pole.” Combine that with a change to mountain-time and it really feels like we are making some progress. Nick’s bike speedo shows that we are 827 miles into the trip – its flying by! Right now we are camped just a few miles outside of New Meadows, Idaho at a place called Zims hot springs. Their Olympic-sized pools are filled with 95 to 104 degree water were a welcome retreat for our weary bones. We realized it’s been 10 days since we have taken a day break and have found this to be a wonderful place to stop. Amazing taco’s for dinner, a hot shower and a killer half hour sunset to end the day on. This is the life. :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)

June 12, 2009

Its been rain rain rain for two days now, but nothing can suppress the beauty of the Idaho Sawtooth mountains. We’ve been happy to find that rain-riding is really not all that bad. The key is to keep moving, as you only really get cold when you stop. This afternoon’s 65 mile ride was almost all downhill, running alongside of the Salmon river. The waterway lived up to its name, as literally hundreds of fishermen were crowded around the banks trying their best to yank out the huge salmon swimming in the rushing water. There were places so crowded that small shantytowns of moterhomes had popped up to sustain the group. John’s perpetual attempt’s to catch a fish with a large sharpened stick never fails to amuse me. Today he seems to have moved his river-based attention to gold panning, which is equally fun. :-)

We decided to camp out in White Bird, Idaho tonight, right at the base of the gnarly “Old White Bird Hill Road.” We figured tomorrow’s fresh legs would help get us up the 9 mile, 2500 foot elevation gain in the morning.

We’re once again camped out for free in the town’s small city park, next to a babbling brook, and across the street from the “Silver Dollar Saloon + restaurant.” The locals are cracking us up, trying to remember our names, and telling us about the town. The first sentence we heard coming in was “Watch out for the woman with big boobs, she’s trouble!” Turns out she’s the town’s matriarch of sorts, who was our waitress, cook, bartender and town-guide. We had a yummy dinner of $5 burgers and 75 cent ‘pop’ (soda). The barback casually strolled over to our table as we were finishing dinner and nonchalantly cracked open four Keystone light cans and dropped them off at the table. “You all better come back and sing some karaoke with us later!” As we chatted we found out that there is an annual bike race called “Just for the Hill of it” which goes up the grade we are riding tomorrow morning. What timing! Apparently the best time in the race’s ten year history is 57 minutes bottom to top. I’m gonna try to beat the record while towing 50 pounds of gear behind me. :-) GREAT people here! We’ve been invited back to the bar to sing Friday nigh karaoke with the locals. We’ve been informed that “We got no stage, you can just go on ‘head and sing from your barstool.” WE LOVE THIS TOWN.

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Sad Day.....

Unfortunately one of our riders had to head home this week. Tony decided to go home to be with his lovely fiancee two days ago. It was sad to see him go, but on the plus side we got to meet his awesome dad, Frank, who drove 36 hours all the way from Chicagoland to give him a ride back. That's love right there. We'll miss ya Tony! You were our resident camp chef, and an eternally positive energy on our trip across Oregon. You better come see us when we cross southern Illinois! Peace.

Monday, June 8, 2009

Pictures



Amanda Making Sage Tea!


Doug, Nick and Amanda, sad to find the road closed to Mckenzie Pass

Henry the bear in Mitchell, Or

"Picture Gorge" in Oregon. This was THE BEST DAY OF RIDING EVER!!


Sahalie falls